Its good to be back at Stonehaven! After a week of traveling and seeing a good cross-section of South Africa, its nice to get back to a routine. The welcome home signs were out for me at Stonehaven, Kali was beside herself to see me, and Mrs. Cat promptly brought a freshly killed mouse to my room, so I guess I was missed, which is always nice.
Part one of the week was Pilanesberg Game Reserve, part two was Cape Town. Ive got lots of pictures to post, so will break the week up into sections for the Blog.
My friend from Atlanta, Ken, got the usual foreigners welcome when he arrived at Stonehaven:
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As usual, the black staff sang and danced his welcome while the white staff stood there and looked. Im not sure if Ken was thrilled or embarrassed or maybe a little of both.
I did a lot of driving during the week, which was good for me. We started out that Sunday in Rexs bakkie, driving to Pilanesberg. We took our time (taking back roads anyway) and stopped at a small game reserve on the way there and saw some nice wildlife, rhinos and ostriches, roaming the countryside. The game reserve was one where you drove your own vehicle through it, with warnings not to get out of the car, and to be careful with rolled down windows (which were to be kept UP when in the lion enclosure).
Monday morning bright and early in Pilanesberg, we got up at 5:30am for a morning game ride. This is the kind of ride where they put you on an open-air vehicle and drive you through the different areas where they hope to spot game. Animals, being what they are, tend to roam and so there is never any guarantee of seeing anything, much less the Big Five. (The Big Five are Elephant, Lion, Rhino, Buffalo and Cheetah). So youre taking your chances on any ride you go on. We did run across a nice rhino family crossing the road that morning, and various other animals, but unfortunately, none of the bigger game we were looking for. In fact, most of our better animal encounters came at the smaller game reserves on the way to and from Pilanesberg.
So after our early morning game drive, we headed to Sun City, which is truly the Las Vegas of South Africa. But first we stopped on the way in at the Crocodile Sanctuary (to worship some crocodiles???).
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We took some touristy type photos:
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Dont worry, that last one is a stuffed croc in a display case.
Then Ken decided to feed the baby crocs some chicken heads and parts:
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Sun City is nestled in the hills of Pilanesberg (which is actually a billions-years-old volcano crater), and is 3 main hotels, with gambling, a water park, and other attractions. Here is one of the hotels, the Palace.
We did an afternoon game drive and once again saw rhinos having an afternoon snack, an elephant out for an afternoon stroll, some zebra playing in the mud, some gemsbok, and more elephants crossing the road. There were about 18 elephants in this herd, a few of them babies. The landscape, with the setting sun, was truly beautiful.
When I was in Botswana last August, the wildlife I saw were much more wild, and stayed away from humans and vehicles. In Pilanesberg, I found the wildlife was not nearly as leery of us, and really didnt care that we got so close to them. I think they see people and cars a lot more than the animals in Botswana do, and they dont feel threatened by us.
That wrapped up the Pilanesberg part of our journey, although on the way home we saw even more animals. With me driving and my trusty navigator Ken with the maps, we found ourselves on a long and winding dirt road out in the middle of nowhere, it seemed. The road was on a map, but said nothing about it being a dirt road. We were on it for about 20k, and Ken was more confident than I was that we were actually where we wanted to be. We could actually see the skyline of Jo-burg off on the horizon, so how lost could we really be? We eventually found the game reserve we were looking for and drove in, once again driving our bakkie past the animals. We came upon a family of ostriches eating lunch, and the babies seemed to think they needed to check us out. Mom wasnt too keen on that, so we drove on. Into the lion enclosure. This was by far our closest encounter with wildlife. We were told not to tease the lions, or to linger within 20 meters of them. We certainly did NOT roll our windows down in this section. One fellow startled us a little when he came up from behind us, got about 10 meters from us and plopped down for a nap. I think he was teasing US! Here are some pictures:
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That last fellow was at the gate when we tried to pass back into the lion area, and the gate keeper, a black woman, came out, opened the gate for us, picked up a rock and threw it at the lion to make him get back, and we drove through (with him literally a meter from the bakkie) and she closed the gate again. I wonder if she gets health insurance through her job?
Then we got to pet the animals!
After our close encounter with lions, we stumbled on the crèche section of the game reserve. A crèche is, even for humans, a nursery school of sorts. It is where they put the young or sick animals until they can fend for themselves. There was a baby rhino in one of the pens, and we happened to walk by just as a game warden was taking him out for a walk. The game warden let us go right up to baby rhino and pet him some, although baby rhino was being a little bit aggressive and cranky unless the game warden kept talking to him to keep him calm and eating.
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With our courage and confidence growing by the minute, we headed into the cheetah cage.
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She was really laid back and enjoyed a good scratch behind the ear. She was lying there peacefully enjoying our attention, until she noticed the rhino and got up to go check him out.
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So we moved on to the lion cubs. These were white lion cubs, there were 4 of them, and they also were pretty curious about the rhino taking his walk.
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The lions seemed more interested in the rhino, but they did let us pet them a little bit.
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These lions were a little more stand-offish than the ones I encountered here in 1984:
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But they were pretty gentle and enjoyed some attention, and when I got back to Stonehaven later that afternoon, I think Guiness and Kali were wondering what were those strange smells were on our hands.
Good to be back at Stonehaven, but only for a day, then off to Cape Town. Will post more on the blog as soon as I can! Unbelievably, some work piled up for me here while I was gone, so trying to catch up on that and write to the blog too. Be patient Blog Audience.
Oh, and BEAT TENNESSEE!!!