Cape Town, 31 January 2005
I woke up in Langebaan Saturday morning hoping to go hang out with the kite surfers and watch the Australian Open womens final on the TV in the bar, but Australia is further ahead of us than I thought and the final was over by the time I got up (which wasnt late). And there was no wind, so no kite surfers yet. Oh well. Rex and I went to the auction of the boat, which was being held on the boat itself at noon. There were about 20 people there, some who were like us, just looking, and some who were serious bidders. The auction itself was over in about 4 minutes. The boat went for 5 million Rand (divide by 6 to get approximate dollars). I was frozen during the auction, afraid to even scratch my nose or move a muscle, lest I be misconstrued for putting in a bid. (but then part of me wanted to raise my hand at about 4 and a half mil, just to see Rexs face).
After the auction, we stopped off at a local dive which Rex and I agreed was the FloraBama Lounge of Langebaan:
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We then headed south, to Cape Town. As we crested a hill, there on the horizon rose Table Mountain off in the distance:
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I dropped Rex off at the airport for his flight back to Johannesburg. I was now on my own. I knew my way around Cape Town somewhat, from having been here in November. The mountain is always there as your frame of reference, so its pretty easy to find your way anywhere. I had kept some phone numbers of guest houses from when I was here before, so called one of them and got a room for the night in the Midtown, Atlanta type area of town. Trendy bars, pretty people, art galleries, quaint restaurants. (Ken, if youre reading this, I was a block from Manhattans). The view from my front porch:
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It was Saturday night, and the neighbourhood was jumping. Me being the non-partier I am, was in bed by 11pm (after some dinner and wine of course), and was constantly awakened pretty much all night by loud drunk people, and loud car audio systems. (some things are the same, world over!)
Bright and early Sunday morning I was up and out for breakfast. My plan had been to leave Cape Town that day, but I realized there were still things in the city I wanted to do, and I felt rushed to cram them in, so I extended my stay another night. I went to the information centre and gathered brochures and maps for my drive home. I also was able to get a high-speed Internet connection at the information centre, and nearly cried with joy to actually see fast Internet access again. (Its not very cost-effective yet where Im living in Vanderbijlpark, so I haven’t seen high-speed since I got here.) I then headed for Table Mountain. When I was here in November, both times I tried to ride the cable car up to the top, it was too windy and the cable car wasnt running. So I was still anxious to do the top of the mountain, one of those tourist-musts. But it was looking iffy. This was what the mountain looked like from the roof of my guesthouse that day:
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Yeah. There is a huge mountain in there. Not promising, heh. Table Mountain had a tablecloth on it. Here is a reminder of what the mountain looks like on a clear day:
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But I bravely drove up to the cable car station. The cable car was running, but they warned me there was zero visibility at the top. Ever the optimist, I plopped down my R110 and figured surely it would clear up in an hour or so! I boarded the cable car and looked up and here is what I saw:
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Hey, the good news on a day like this, no standing in line for a ticket! Only 7 people on my cable car! (it holds 65) So up we went!
And here is what it looked like at the top:
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Oh, and here is the view looking down, that glorious view of the city I was so looking forward to:
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And it was cold. And wet. We were in a rain cloud. I had brought a jacket with me, so it was bearable, but not pleasant. Fortunately there was a nice warm dry restaurant up there, so I headed directly for that. I figured I would have a nice lunch, hot coffee, and any minute, the sun would come out and it would be a beautiful afternoon! 2 hours later I was jittery from coffee and damit, not a glimpse of the sun.
So I boarded the cable car and descended to warmer temps and it was nice to see the city was still there:
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I assumed that as soon as I got down, the clouds would part and the mountain would laugh down at me, but as it turned out, when I left the city 2 days later, the mountain still had its tablecloth covering it (even though the city was in bright sun). It happens.
I drove up another mountain near Table Mountain and got a glorious view of the ocean from there. That particular mountain (Signal Hill) is a prime spot to watch a sunset, so that was my plan for later in the day. Unfortunately, when I drove back up there for sunset, Signal Hill was now shrouded in a cloud (but no crowds up there!). I would post the pictures of what sunset looked like, but look at the Table Mountain photos again. Same thing. It just wasnt my day.
Fortunately the weather down in the city was sunny and warm, so I drove down the coast some that day and enjoyed the scenery.
Another dinner, more wine, and I was asleep at a decent hour. Sunday nights are much quieter! Monday morning, I checked out of my guest house to begin my drive back towards Stonehaven. I had studied my maps, collected brochurs, knew the general route I wanted to take, knew general places I want to see, and had listings for hotels, guest houses along the way. My first destination was Hermanus, just to the east of Cape Town. (see the map). It is normally about an hour from CT, but I took the indirect route because I wanted to drive down the Cape some. I love those roads down there and I love the ocean views. Here are a couple of pictures from my drive down the Cape:
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I arrived in Hermanus, which is best known for being ground zero for whale watching, when in season (November and early December):
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I had lunch and walked around the shops for a bit before continuing my drive eastward.
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I had to slow down a couple of times for a baboon family to cross the road, and I drove into countryside where there were as many ostriches grazing in the fields as there were cows and sheep. This is Africa, after all. If you look at the map, I was heading for the southernmost tip of Africa. People (me included) always think of Cape Town and the Cape as being the tip of Africa, but as you see on the map, there is a more southern tip of the continent. And I wanted to be there!
I arrived at a small town near the southern tip, called Arniston. It was named for a ship that wrecked there in 1815, costing 372 British citizens lives. Now its just a small, sleepy fishing village. I booked in at the only hotel there, the Arniston Hotel:
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I promptly set out for a walk on the beach, and dipped my feet into the Indian Ocean for the first time this trip.
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(Not bad with a self-timer, heh?)
I had another Shirley Valentine moment as I updated the Blog (see the movie):
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For dinner I walked around the corner from my hotel to a very Afrikaans restaurant and had a delicious fresh sea salmon grilled in butter, with some hot vegetable soup. Walking home, the stars were almost as bright as they were in the Kalahari Desert last August, and though the Southern Cross hadnt risen yet, I did watch 2 satellites drift by overhead. Wow!